An early prototype compared with another manufacturer's model. Both are 14oz weights.
An early prototype compared with another manufacturer's model. Both are 14oz weights.
Here's what you get with an Oak half-sized throwbag:
Half-sized - The shot blend is overall denser than lead shot and results in a smaller, slimmer bag. It's not really half-size of the, but the bags are noticeably smaller and easier to use. Bags feel 2-4 oz smaller than the equivalent bags made by other manufacturers. The small bag slips through the canopy on throws and hangs up less when working the bag. I use these bags for all applications, but I especially enjoy them for in-canopy throws.
Non-Toxic - These bags use non-toxic shot approved for use with waterfoul hunting. Having a bag break means you're not spreading lead shot around the woods.
Small Ring - I prefer the smallest ring that still fits my climbing rope. I use small diameter ropes, so I personally use small rings. I'm sure many of you have experienced the frustration of a bag stuck because the ring managed to land perfectly over a small stub. Smaller rings help avoid this issue. Please specify your preferred rope size when requesting a bag.
Price - uh...there's no way around this. These are expensive. $70 for a 10.5 oz bag expensive. The shot is expensive so the bag is expensive. And bigger bags use more shot and are more expensive. For that reason I offer a:
Half-Price Exchange Program - All throwbags are high-wear items and eventually break. In my experience, the bags will show signs of wear at the seams before they begin losing shot or failing catastrophically. When the bag starts to fail, you can send it back to me for a half-priced bag or a credit towards a different size (depending on the amount of shot preserved).
A word on durability:
These are designed for recreational climbing and I find them plenty durable for that purpose. I do not use an inner balloon found on leaded bags, which also helps keep the bag smaller, as the cost of some durability. A bag which shows weakness as the seams is likely to catastrophically fail ("explode") with a big hit. To maximize bag life, minimize hard impacts such as whiffed throws when climbing over pavement, or firing a full-power line-launcher shot directly into a low limb. If you're worried, save this (expensive) bag for your in-canopy throwing kit. The small size excels in this application.
Glued, Stitched and terminated with Chicago Screws.
The small haul-loop is removable.
I prefer leather sleeves over flexible conduit sleeves because of how well they stay put, a key feature for me when climbing downward sloping branches - especially on slippery barked redwoods. But I've been unhappy with the commonly available commercial versions, so I made some for myself and a few friends. Now they're available to anyone.
Here's what you get with an Oak saver:
Lightweight - Leather is heavy and the competitors use thick leather. This lasts longer, but not an issue for me in a recreational setting. A lighter saver is less likely to hang up in the canopy, and the more flexible leather better conforms to small limbs. My versions are 120-175 g depending on the length, diameter and variations in leather, whereas a 22" commercial one is 230 g. That's an extra carabiner per saver (so 2x carabiners for a typical set of 2 savers), or a couple extra chocolate bars.
Shorter lengths - Competitors' sleeves are 22-24" - great for large branches, but get in my way when I'm in the upper canopy on small branches. I offer my cambium savers in 18-22" lengths. This also saves weight.
Glued and Screwed - I use a high-quality ultra-flexible leather adhesive along the seam area, in addition to stitching it with UV resistant polyester thread (lower stretch than nylon, but moves and flexes better than Kevlar). The ends of the stitching are terminated and reinforced with Chicago screws (removable rivets). These permit addition of small attachment loops on the savers for racking - not strictly necessary and possibly a snag-hazard.
Usually I keep the savers on my rope, but do usually remove one when exiting the tree on an SRS canopy anchor - less hassle when pulling down. I often see climbers girth/clove hitching the saver with a sling or split tail around the middle, which causes the saver to catch and hang up. The end loop lets the saver hang vertically like the other gear on my harness. Plus I find the loops more comfortable than shoving a sleeve in my shirt!
Smaller Diameter - A smaller diameter sleeve is easier to slide through tight constrictions. I often climb on 9mm or smaller ropes, so I wanted smaller diameter sleeves. I sell sleeves in a few different diameters, up to about 1.1 inch. Smaller diameters work fine for normal sized climbing ropes, but can be more difficult to get a spliced eye through. For a tight fitting sleeve, the eye can be pulled through with a throwline. Let me know what size you want.
Lower price - at least for now, I'm able to offer these at a lower price than most competing models. $50 for a pair, or $30 each. I'm not trying to compete on price, just features, but it's nice to help folks save a few bucks as well. Part of the savings is that I try to minimize waste by permitting variation in each product as is typical in cottage industry goods made from natural materials. As such, I also provide a guarantee:
Guarantee - These are designed for recreational climbing and I find them plenty durable for that purpose. I expect them to last for many years, but I will guarantee that if, in the next year, you have a problem develop from rec climbing that affects function, I'll provide a refund, repair or replacement.